Sunday, September 10, 2017

2017 Autumn Japan Part 2 - Takayama, hida beef, onsen, kimi no na wa


 Day 3, after two nights in Nagoya, especially the great movie Kimi no na wa the night earlier, it was time to head to Takayama to see the 'real stuff'. Here we met wifey's Japan teacher, Keiichiro Yamamoto. Here going to view some phono headphones the wifey was yawing about.




It was then a ~2 hour drive to Takayama!

We stayed at TAKAYAMA OUAN.  
Quite an old hotel, (20 yo?),  right next to the train station, but a bit far to walk to the old town ~800m.  Ouan has a 'no shoe' policy, being a Ryokan, it was 'the best' in terms of no shoes. As most would know, I would prefer slippers or barefoot as a preferred option. And the ENTIRE hotel had a no shoe policy, it was pretty relaxing. Room was big, suitable enough. Mattress/pillows were decent too. The selling point of this place was the three private onsen rooms which they had. Cons: the aircon was grunting like a fat hippo and we had to turn it off before sleeping. Fortunately it wasn't that warm.

Map of Takayama. All the yellow area is the old town, quaint shops, morning markets, sake breweries, hida beef restaurants are all within walking distance.

View from one of the private onsens.

飛驒牛 (Hida beef) from 高山Takayama is the specific name given to beef from a black-haired Japanese cattle breed, that has been raised in Gifu Prefecture for at least 14 months. Hida-gyu is required to have been confirmed and certified as Yield Score of Grade A or B by the Hida Beef Brand Promotion Conference, and have a Firmness and Texture Grade of 5, 4 or 3 as graded by the Japan Meat Grading Association. As a fan of beef, it was going to be 'every meal with beef' or 'go home'!

Our hotel was walking distance to this Ajikura tengoku, http://www.ajikura.jp/. It was recommended by hotel staff and as we were pretty late after the onsen ~8pm, it was apt to try this.

Yummy images full of animals. I chose a mixed platter of beef and pork chops

Method of booking is the BBQ/over coals type. The flavours of the beef were pretty good, not mind flowing. I didnt' choose any A5 steaks though as they're very expensive and usually too fat/much to finish. The pork turned out more delicious for me.



Day 4: we were up reasonably early, and not having breakfast, it was a very short drive to the river where the morning market is. Full of local produce, it was a nice walk in cool ~22deg weather.


The streets at the old main road of the old town

it was too early to go for Matsuki Sushi, hence we drove a short ride to Keta Wakamiya Shrine (気多若宮神社), a few scenes from the movie were referenced from here.


Kuchikami Sake scene in the movie.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXe-c8xDQm0


At the start of the stairs where the town of Itomori was preparing to watch the comet.

Keta Wakamiya Shrine (気多若宮神社)

http://www.matsuki-sushi.com/
Decent prices for lunch. Sushi was average, they're already pre-cut, fyi.



I can't resist the 'top-up' for Hida beef on hot plate. This was really one of the best beef in my life. This best the beef eaten the day earlier.

It was high noon, very harsh shadows making poor photography. Here along the old town with classic architecture lining the sidewalks.

plenty of sake tasting around.

Harada Sake Brewery. http://www.sansya.co.jp/. For 200 yen, you get a free cup and one glass of each of the sakes. Very good pricing but nothing impressed us here.

Kawashiri sake brewery http://www.hidamasamune.com/. Specialising in aged sakes, one of the better tastings in Takayama

The range at Kawashiri.

The range at Kawashiri.

ANother popular one at Takayama. Getting tired to remember the name.

ANother popular one at Takayama. Getting tired to remember the name. Very nice aged sake here.




it was ~4pm and we could decide to go back to rest/onsen or try another touristy spot.
it was to the Hida folk village. A post-card like place with local games to play, a nice talk, houses of old to visit. One of the visit of the entire trip!

Entrance fee around 300 yen, parking xxx yen. Worthy every 0.02 yen.

Almost Shire-like!

Post-card perfect grass-roof of old, classic from Shirikawa-go (A famous Unesco site which we'd visit the next day), it seemed that this group uplifted from Shirikawa-go and settled in Hida.

Loving the evening light.



Erm..what did we eat for dinner? We're still in Hida land right?

Here at the most famous hida restaurant. Hidayu-Maruaki restaurant. http://hidagyu-maruaki.co.jp/restaurant/takayama.html

A5 was pretty expensive, I had the basic set instead. in Sukiyaki style!

Ba-dum tss....

Beef here is better than the first day's restaurant, very beef taste, full of flavours. Very nice indeed.

It was onward to another private onsen, and the slow drift to moo moo dream land.


Saturday, September 09, 2017

2017 Autum Japan part 1 - Nagoya, Gifu

It was the wifey big milestone (hint: the BIG candles on a birthday cakes hit the next '0'). It was off to her favourite country, Japan! It's one of my favourite destinations too, having been to Hokkaido twice, Tokyo a few times, Nagoya once too, everything from their politeness, manga, technology, water, food, sake etc are all done with utmost dedication.

The last visit to Yuji was in ~2009, glad to have met them again on day 1 of our trip, and onward to a nice lunch in Gifu, followed by a trip to Gifu castle

Gifu castle, nagoya can be seen 'far far' away. Note the amount of flat land that Japan seem to have?

Gifu castle was manned by Samurai in the olden days, and they would hike up and down the hill daily, till one day a tired bum decided to call it home up there. Here toys used by Sam to protect what was needed.

Tofu. Yums. The soup was super with the soya sauce. Didn't get the brand of the sauce though.

Lovely place for lunch. Completely immersed in "Japan'" right away!

View from near the top !

Reaching top soon

Lunch

Lunch

A 200 yen entry to play with Squirrels.


An-almost attempt at Squirrel Sashimi.




The trip up was via a cable car, we decided to hike down, not the best option for the missus.



Yeah, squint your eyes and you can see the white spec, a relief to tbe down on solid ground.

yes and i WORE SLIPPERS on the hike, #HERO

it was off to some Japanese ice kacang after the warm/tiring hike. A Giant bowl here cost 850 yen. Way too sweet and artificial for my liking

The ice kacang shop

A very early dinner after.

Izakaya style,with Akamiso (赤みそ)(red miso) as the popular dish. A bit sweet/heavy for me

Other yummy stuff

image: http://www.meitetsu.co.jp/ map


Our host then dropped us off at a stop called Kashiwamori, it was the Meitetsu line, and not the easiest to navigate back to central Nagoya to our Air Bnb. Around 650m of luggage lugging to our tiny airbnb with a super single bed. End of day 1!

day 2. Magome, Tsumago.
The missus planned the trip, and an option was to go for the hiking places of these famed town ~2 hr off Magome. We were up bright and early and got to Kashiwamori. Here visit to old house, pretty nice little down for Magome, while Tsumago is a bit more backward and less touristy. We would hve preferred to hike the ~8km between the two towns but Yuji suggested drinking which we gladly obliged.



Traditional jap house in Magome

Japanese playing cards

Time was measured by the amount of time incense took to burn

A view of the Japanese Alps.

LIned with shophouses, one that drew my attention was this shop selling products from Hinoki wood. And I knew I had to get a board, as they just smelled so good.

Here back home, with the Magome inscripted board made from the most authentic Japanese Cypress wood refer!

Poor lunch at Magome touristy area. Handmade soba but it was blah.

Streets of Tsumago.

image: https://nagmag.jp/nagoya-subway-and-transportation-map/ Nagoya Subway map

It was ~4pm when we go back to Kashiwaromi station and it was a decision to make to go back to rest before dinner or just cheong for dinner. Nagoya is famous for Unagi (eel) with their Hitsumabushi (3ways of eating methods). A quick search and Horaiken Nagoya Unagi restaurant seemed the best bet but the connection to a rail station near was pretty challenging as the about Meitetsu network didnt' link to the another network(turned out to be the Subway), as google /maps were giving incomplete information. We did located the place and still at ~5pm, there were 30 pax in the Queue already and a 20min wait later, the famous dish was in front of us and it was perhaps the top 2 meals of the trip! The Unagi alone is super tasty with umami flavours. Comparing with Singapore's Manman Unagi at 1 Keong Saik Road, Horaiken's was supreme. Man man's won in the wasabi / dashi department though.





A clearly satisfied missus.

This building has like 12 stories? (many giant buildings around Nagoya are like this, with 'all in one' ensuring you won't need to leave the building). We went to shop for headphones ( considerably cheaper in Japan than Singapore!)

My absolute pick (yes, I tried as many 5-6 digit yen head phones) and this just got stuck onto my head and security needed to wrangle it off me. The 'how to test a headphone' is simple: If you don't feel like taking it off, that's it. Many other 5-6 figure Headphones were awesome, but this was, 'un-take-off-able!' The Sennheiser HD 800 S Handphone . Hint: X'mas is coming

earphones: yes this was da bomb

Grand Seikos.



Back at the air Bnb, we watched Kimi No Na Wa for the first time. The missus has been asking to watch but both of us haven't forked out the time required. Usually before a trip, the few weeks are generally very hectic for us. A trip is a time when we can push back some work and boy, this was clearly our movie of the year. I can't even name a #2 which comes close. The cinematography, animation, music, character development were all Oscar-worthy. I've never seen anime with chalkboard-writing so realistic, Comet depiction so kaleidoscopic and storyline so mesmerising!

A great way to anticipate the Takayama leg of the trip on our very next day, day 3: Takayama!